Tips for Route Setting: How to Build Gym Favourites & Avoid Common Mistakes

Route setting isn’t easy. Every route setter knows that it is hard work and needs dedication. Setting isn’t just bolting the climbing holds to walls. Setting routes can be described as a form of art. Good routes challenge climber’s physique and brain and also teach climbing techniques in a natural way. Whether you’re just starting out, or already had some experience, here are some helpful tips for route setting. Avoid monotonous, ladder type setting By…

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Finnish Bouldering Cup with Anssi Venho — Routesetting in Competitions

Original interview in Finnish by Tuomo Lankinen, www.bouldersaimaa.fi Routesetting in competitions is super hard work! You can’t really prevent skin from tearing up. There are so many problems to set and even more moves to do. Well planned routes or boulder problems form the basis of any competition. The best competition problems push the competitors to climb well and offer crowd impressing moves. All great competition problems start with the right holds laid out on the…

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Searching For Doseth – The Dark Art of Crack Climbing

Tapio Alhonsuo tells how Hans Christian Doseth has influenced his climbing. Doseth’s routes had played a big part in my slow progress of learning the dark art of crack climbing, and I celebrated every time when I was successful with his routes. I made my first climbing trip to Norway over a decade ago. It was an overwhelming experience for a young and hungry climber, who came from a land which foreigners described as “flatland”. As any tourist…

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The First Finns in Ice Climbing World Cup

Tapio Alhonsuo recalls last January when he entered the Ice Climbing World Cup with Enni Bertling, Mira Alhonsuo and Albert Kaikkonen as the first ever Finnish participants. Finland hadn’t had a competitor in the Ice World Cup ever. That was just lousy. Entering the Ice World Cup has been one of my lifelong dreams. It first occurred to me sometime maybe seven or eight years ago. I knew it back then that I was in…

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Finland’s Leading Route Setter Says: Climb Outdoors to Set Indoors

“the most important factor at getting better at setting is to leave the gyms and go climb rock”   “I’ve been climbing for over 20 years”, starts Sauli Kiema. Such a career means he that has seen the entire rise of indoor climbing scene in Finland. He knows everyone, and everyone knows Sauli. A nice guy to talk to and hang out with. That’s why we also wanted to spend a moment together. Another reason…

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Kitka beer and bratwurst tour 2015

Hello dear readers, Few weeks ago we packed the car and headed south to Friedrichshafen, Germany for Oudoor 2015 trade show. It was a long drive through Europe (and even longer coming back home), but certainly worth the effort. At the show we met gym owners, route setters, climbers, people behind other climbing hold brands, material suppliers, distributors etc. We were delighted to see such a good atmosphere between hold brands. One afternoon there was…

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Kitka Climbing @ OutDoor Trade Show 2015

The OutDoor trade show in Germany’s Friedrichshafen is the biggest annual fair for outdoor enthusiasts in Europe. In 2014, the fair saw 925 exhibitors, nearly 22,000 visitors, and more than 1,000 journalists. This year also we will attend – as an exhibitor! We’ve been working hard at Kitka HQ to release now the latest product updates, which will be showcased next week in Germany. Among them are: 1) New shapes All climbing hold companies do…

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Griffin Whiteside Talks about Route Setting and Boulder Competitions

Albeit there’s plenty high quality bouldering in Finland, our land appears far away in northern Europe and it’s not every day that an American 8C boulderer stops by to set for a comp. During the Boulder League finals, we sat down with Mr. Griffin Whiteside to talk about what brought him here and how he sees the current state of gym bouldering, competitions, contemporary styles, and so on. … but to be honest, we just think he’s…

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Boulder League Brought the Gyms Together

Text: Lari Malmberg (Translation: Jouni @ Kitka) ”Well I was a bit annoyed”, starts Janne Sievänen, who runs a climbing center in Tampere. He had noted that, along with the climbing boom, there are so many gyms in Finland that the competitions everyone was organising individually had begun to overlap. First he wanted to sketch an event calendar but then came across a greater idea. ”Why not organise an entire league? One in which climbers…

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Skiers and Snowboarders, Here’s One Reason to Start Climbing

Some of the main ski resorts in the Austrian Alps closed for the season this past weekend. To some riders, it meant the end of the snow season, but to some others a new beginning, this time higher up on glaciers. In which of the two parties are you? Knocked off by someone else’s will? You know that the conditions are still prime, right? Or are you perhaps a freerider, who watched already in the high…

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