Tips for Route Setting: How to Build Gym Favourites & Avoid Common Mistakes

Route setting isn’t easy. Every route setter knows that it is hard work and needs dedication. Setting isn’t just bolting the climbing holds to walls. Setting routes can be described as a form of art. Good routes challenge climber’s physique and brain and also teach climbing techniques in a natural way. Whether you’re just starting out, or already had some experience, here are some helpful tips for route setting. Avoid monotonous, ladder type setting By…

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Finnish Bouldering Cup with Anssi Venho — Routesetting in Competitions

Original interview in Finnish by Tuomo Lankinen, www.bouldersaimaa.fi Routesetting in competitions is super hard work! You can’t really prevent skin from tearing up. There are so many problems to set and even more moves to do. Well planned routes or boulder problems form the basis of any competition. The best competition problems push the competitors to climb well and offer crowd impressing moves. All great competition problems start with the right holds laid out on the…

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Searching For Doseth – The Dark Art of Crack Climbing

Tapio Alhonsuo tells how Hans Christian Doseth has influenced his climbing. Doseth’s routes had played a big part in my slow progress of learning the dark art of crack climbing, and I celebrated every time when I was successful with his routes. I made my first climbing trip to Norway over a decade ago. It was an overwhelming experience for a young and hungry climber, who came from a land which foreigners described as “flatland”. As any tourist…

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The First Finns in Ice Climbing World Cup

Tapio Alhonsuo recalls last January when he entered the Ice Climbing World Cup with Enni Bertling, Mira Alhonsuo and Albert Kaikkonen as the first ever Finnish participants. Finland hadn’t had a competitor in the Ice World Cup ever. That was just lousy. Entering the Ice World Cup has been one of my lifelong dreams. It first occurred to me sometime maybe seven or eight years ago. I knew it back then that I was in…

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Finland’s Leading Route Setter Says: Climb Outdoors to Set Indoors

“the most important factor at getting better at setting is to leave the gyms and go climb rock”   “I’ve been climbing for over 20 years”, starts Sauli Kiema. Such a career means he that has seen the entire rise of indoor climbing scene in Finland. He knows everyone, and everyone knows Sauli. A nice guy to talk to and hang out with. That’s why we also wanted to spend a moment together. Another reason…

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Nothing Stops MS on the Rocks!

Last summer, we had an exceptional guest at the Climbing Center of Zillertal. It was a hot day, and she could have joined the others complaining about sweaty hands and bad friction. But no, we did not hear any nagging of that or bad sleep or a skipped lunch – the usual suspects of a failure to send the latest project. Instead, we saw a climber enjoying her every second on the wall. We learned that she is very special. As…

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